Loriot by Ghost Hawk Brewing Co. was judged as a table version Saison, BJCP category 24B, as the guidelines for Saison allows for a rather large span of interpretation. Overall, my expectations for any “farmhouse” or saison beer include some peppery spice phenolics, a little citrus note, a very dry finish, high carbonation, refreshing and quaffable. As a table version everything should be present but at subdued levels while maintaining some level of complexity in the Belgian yeast expression. That’s asking a lot from a small beer. Grisette is not a style listed in the BJCP or the Brewers Association guidelines. In his book “Farmhouse Ales” Phil Markowski indicates that “oral accounts of those who remember the old grisettes say they were low alcohol, light bodied, saison-like golden ales of no great distinction.” Not exactly a great sales pitch for the style. Most other references and what I recall being told of the style describe them as being a table version of a Belgian saison with perhaps a touch more tartness.

Loriot from Ghost Hawk Brewing opens with a low-level fresh lemon pepper aromatic. Very low level bready and yeasty, near doughy malt character. All is quite inviting and near-evenly balanced and clean. Nothing off or out of place and all sufficiently subtle yet interesting. The beer pours a hazy straw yellow with a big white foamy head that drops to a lingering wispy ring. The flavor provides more in the way of an evenly balanced lemon and pepper, tipping ever so slightly toward the citrus. The acidity aids the low bittering levels in countering the white bread malt character. Moderately dry and also aided by the low tartness. It could be a tad drier for me, but it’s still quite refreshing. There is a hint of pineapple in the aftertaste that is interesting and enjoyable albeit unexpected. The body is medium light with moderately high carbonation that could be higher.

Very enjoyable beer that fits nicely into the table version of a saison. Perhaps as a grisette it could use a touch more tartness. Super refreshing and quaffable. Sufficiently complex for a small beer. My only desire was for additional dryness and carbonation but that may be more of a personal preference than stylistic deficiency. Great summer beer.