Session Black Lager

Although not a wildly popular style, American dark lager is starting to build a following, and Full Sail Brewing’s Session Black Lager is a stellar example. Perched on the Columbia River, overlooking some of the best sailboarding water in the world, Full Sail turns out an extensive portfolio of amazing beers, and this one is no exception. For such a dark beer, the aroma is surprisingly subdued, with whiffs of caramel and chocolate drifting over a light, Graham Cracker-like malt base. Pete found hints of toasted English muffin underneath the prevailing caramel and was pleasantly surprised by the somewhat plummy fruitiness. While Tom noted the same appetizing toastiness that Pete picked up, he found the caramel aroma much richer and darker, almost to the point of coming across as burnt. As befits a dark lager, this beer shows itself as a deeply saturated mahogany, bordering on brown, and it’s capped by a moderately sized, off-white head that collapses rather quickly. A somewhat aggressive graininess jumped at Tim, but he noted that flavors of mocha and cream helped keep it in check. Rick, on the other hand, thought the malty chocolate and caramel flavors were muted and possibly lacked a little punch and complexity, leaving the overall flavor somewhat neutral. As more beer drinkers switch to session beers, especially those with roots firmly in the Pre-Prohibition tradition, expect to see Session Black Lager at your local purveyor of fine beverages. Should you find yourself in Hood River, Ore., stop by the brewery’s attached pub to sample it and the rest of Jamie Emmerson’s top-notch lineup.